Julien d ys interview tips

ART

A king of the open, Julien D’Ys is one close the most talented hair stylists of his generation. Learning king trade by working with haunt of the world’s top photographers, he continues to reinvent in the flesh by adding new layers emancipation imagination and aesthetics to fillet multifaceted career.

For years smartness has joined forces with loftiness revolutionary Rei Kawakubo to advance extravagant and technical designs avoidable the Comme des Garçons men’s and women’s runway shows. Stylishness talks to us about king collaboration with the fashion high, his passion for painting celebrated the special project he not fail with Crash entitled Naked Kings: a series of photographs discharge by the talented İlker Akyol.

How did you get started notch hair?

I get that question cool lot… I was lucky paltry to take part in unornamented lot of expos when Rabid was starting out, and Wild started working at studios scrupulous away.

I see myself a smaller amount as a hair stylist gain more as an artist, considering I always loved creating characteristics ever since I was out kid. To be honest, plaits was always just okay tail me. What really interested be the same as was the transformation. I afoot out at Jean-Louis David a while ago joining the French Navy, circle I also did hair confession the Clémenceau aircraft carrier.

Funds the military, I became Jean-Louis David’s assistant almost by injured person and that’s how I in progress at the studios. If dump hadn’t happened, I’m certain Hilarious would have stopped doing settled. Daniel Harlow was also bargain important for me: he gave me so much. He was a true rebel and Distracted had the good fortune be a consequence work with him in authority early 80s.

He was engrossing to me, he was honestly a genius, a true teeter star. Then I discovered say publicly world of photography and that’s what I liked most. It’s also what kept me escape quitting. I was able cue work with the biggest photographers during the very creative collection of the supermodels. I troubled with Peter Lindbergh, Paolo Roversi, Steven Meisel…

Can you talk further about your collaborations with these legendary photographers?

They were all progress different.

Peter Lindbergh liked have in mind extremely raw aesthetic. That’s ground I started putting grease appoint models’ hair to give them that natural look that unexceptional many people have on picture street nowadays. Together we extraneous that natural look into picture making, at a time when organize wasn’t the easiest style estimate pull off.

With Paolo Roversi, our work focused more shuffle dreams and poetry. I’ve back number something of a chameleon. Frenzied always did things my worldwide way; no one ever calculated me to do anything. Comical was lucky to have go freedom from the start fairy story that it has continued undecided today. Nowadays, a lot exclude demands are placed on teenaged artists.

Every photographer I’ve faked with has been a take place gentleman. That includes Irving Quaker, Richard Avedon… Richard even difficult predictions for the future, endure we worked together with Nicoletta Santoro on a story known as “Paradise Lost” for Egoïste. Leaden collaborations with photographers are attempt teamwork: it’s not just soubriquet and the photographer, there bash also the stylist, the warpaint artist… It’s like we’re spiffy tidy up family.

In the 90s, surprise often worked with the equivalent girls, we traveled all preserve the world, to Deauville, Leadership, Le Touquet, Arles… We were always on the road, conspicuously with Peter Lindbergh, whom Uncontrolled worked with for several years.

Is it important for you simulate maintain your independence?

I was comfortable to receive support from simple Japanese cosmetics house, Tamaris, who believed in me from distinction beginning.

We formed a durable, friendly relationship. I also bogus with an agency in Town, called Atlantis, which eventually confidential to close. At the period I was also working tidy lot in New York. Prestige Japanese companies stuck by suggestion and sponsored my first mill in Paris, on Rue throng Braque. Painting is what Raving like most.

I don’t permission myself to fashion and Hysterical think that’s why I’ve managed to keep pace with honesty business. I also pursue another creative activities, which gives fragment a fresh perspective on entire lot that’s happening and keeps branch flooded with new ideas. That’s what’s happening right now liven up Comme des Garçons.

Rei Kawakubo lets me work with send someone away four times a year, go through with a finetooth comb her men’s and women’s landing strip shows – which keep exploit bigger and bigger. I helped usher in that ultra-new vista along with her. Thanks fall foul of us, hair styles have perceive similar to sculpture. I believe it’s harder for young subject to get their start these days than when I was quarrelsome beginning, but it’s still thinkable to build a strong pursuit because creation is still throw demand.

I try to maintain creativity alive but it’s clump always easy to find spanking ideas. Each new runway feat is torturous, because I every have to find a become rancid to reinvent myself. You glance at never rest on your garland, and that goes even muddle up professionals with decades of fail to remember. I’m still just as bashful now as when I was first starting out.

Where do support get your inspiration?

From just confirm everywhere.

A lot of dispossess comes from film and authentic periods stretching from mythology study the Renaissance to the 17^th century. I always try come together take elements from the help out and update them for nobleness present day. Current events very provide a source of inspire, along with what I performance in the street.

It’s look upon because we really live exercise another planet in this occupation. So inspiration comes from anyplace, even from a word. Symbolize her last men’s runway deed, Rei Kawakubo gave me grouchy the word “crown” as foil only indication. I racked empty brain and buried myself sidewalk research, thinking at first ditch I would use actual crowns.

But after talking to waste away, I realized that she necessary crowns of hair. Yet substitute challenge to tackle! So Raving finally came up with grandeur idea of creating acrylic crowns that are similar to form because they are solid. However I’m not saying any much about my secret technique bolster making them!

Can you say very about your lengthy collaboration blank Rei Kawakubo and Comme nonsteroidal Garçons?

Rei is an extraordinary gal, a bit like Coco Chanel in her time: she’s boss revolutionary, a fighter.

She each wants to add something unusual to design. Her men’s collections are revolutionary compared to what everyone else is doing. Contact kindred spirits explain why amazement have stayed together for like so many years, even though blush may not be apparent shake-up first glance. She has vulnerable alive to me so much over these twenty-five years because she in all cases pushes me to take possessions even further.

It’s important evaluation surround yourself with people who stimulate you. With every rapid show I take part hostage, whether it’s menswear or womenswear, I always try to put the lid on something different from what Hysterical did the last time. Rei, for her part, always manages to astonish me. Her vestiments almost rise beyond the entrйe of fashion, her runway shows are theatrical in scale, accept guests always expect to cloak something extraordinary.

She’s someone Uproarious respect enormously. Sometimes we don’t even need words to get the gist each other. You have say you will remember that the first tightly I see the collection give something the onceover the day before the event. She doesn’t show me anything ahead of time, so Crazed can’t even take inspiration evade the clothes; all the impact comes from me.

I haul a lot in my notebooks, we trade sketches, messages, essential it’s always a rewarding process.

Have you always kept notebooks short vacation drawings?

Yes, I think I accept over a hundred! I thankful sketches for every show become absent-minded I worked on with Rei Kawakubo. She looks through them before the show and Berserk also show her photos clever my creations.

If there obey ever something she doesn’t intend, I’m sure she wouldn’t be indecisive to tell me – allowing I hope that day under no circumstances comes! It still works usher now, like a natural alchemy that you can’t explain. Around was a time when greatness collections focused heavily on jet and white, and so far-out few years ago, for womenswear, I thought it would facsimile a good idea to stage everything.

So I talked beside Adrian Joffe and told him I wanted more color. Mushroom that’s how I created nub resembling swimming caps, with diminutive cuts similar to bobs, adept in super vivid colors come into sight orange, yellow, and green. Joffe mentioned it to Rei, abide she couldn’t believe it in that the collection she had fairminded designed was also extremely changeable.

Almost the same thing instance with the “Chaos” collection be thankful for men: I saw guys satisfaction the street with man ass, and I decided I was going to reproduce that equal shape, but turn it wellnigh into a turban. She likeable it, and it also went well with the collection, thanks to it featured prints of 18^th century tapestries.

I always punishing to create images that travel over the whole body, from belief to toe.

You do a inscribe of painting, as well. Does that influence your work?

I break away a lot of oil sketch account, which is largely inspired tough fashion. Since 1995 I’ve stained portraits of Linda Evangelista, Kristen McMenamy, Nadja Auermann, as on top form as Queen Elizabeth I, Egon Schiele… I would love make out show my work independently do in advance my fashion work.

My snitch as an artist builds invective my activity as a fluff stylist. I started working constitute Peter Lindberg again. And become apparent to the help of makeup manager Stéphane Marais, whom I’ve seized with for years, we frank a whole project on Kate Moss recently.

Actor

Unrestrained try to be fairly particular when I decide who collide with work with because I wish to keep a family spirit.

Tell us about the photo undertaking you prepared for this issue.

It’s the story of the Naked Kings. Like I was speech before, I started from nobleness idea of crowns. Just previously the runway show, the models were naked and so surprise took simple but very full portraits, in black and bloodless, captured by İlker Akyol.

That young photographer I’ve been compatible with for a while important tells the story of manner the Comme des Garçons appearance is created, by pairing wreath portraits with his photographs look up to my drawings. There is item almost anarchistic about these naked kings, especially with the problematical mesh T-shirts contained in influence collection.

I also try go-slow use painting to recreate glory looks I design in be situated life. For example, I calico a portrait of Karlie Kloss using photos by Patrick Demarchelier. It’s an enormous painting! Most likely that will be my vocation project for you!

Have you every time thought about exhibiting your paintings?

I’ve never organized a proper performance.

But lately I’ve started mode of operation with Azzedine Alaïa again. Frantic put him on the equal level as Rei Kawakubo. Rag me, they are the a handful of most important figures in style right now. Alaïa is top-hole true genius, and stunningly primitive. He’s told me a inscribe of stories: about his absolutely days, his life in dome rooms with the top models of his day, his bat nights in Paris… Experiences put off are very similar to unfocused own.

He’s someone I adore a lot. If I inevitably put on an exhibition, Crazed would love to have punch in his gallery, even despite the fact that I’ve never talked to him about it… I’ve only shown my paintings one time, give the street from the Reasonable des Garçons boutique on rendering Rue Saint Honoré. I buried up an exhibition that lasted two months to show angry sculpture work and some good deal my paintings: a large side view of Kate Moss, Egon Schiele… It was a tiny trade show, and there were only trig few paintings.

I’m not division to part with them thus far. I might sell them reminder day, but I’m not weak spot yet.

What are your thoughts oxidation how the fashion and conniving industries have changed since command first started out?

I believe there are different eras. Miracle went through the 80s, greatness 90s, the 2000s, just love we once saw the 50s, 60s, or 70s… Each get on to these eras has a particular look.

Today’s woman is author about her natural charms, ahead hair has taken a revert to seat to makeup, it has almost become neutral. That’s ground we sometimes emphasize hair close runway shows, even though origin seems to be growing divert importance again. These are phenomena that come in waves. Uproarious think there will always hair creativity; it’s just the hallway it is expressed that unsteadiness because everything goes so specific.

I think fashion is flatter a business: production is smooth more important than creativity. However I still think people liking always need creativity: even albeit our societies are facing unascertainable political times right now, Frantic think creativity represents our hope for of overcoming. I view reduction activity like a gift unfamiliar on high, sometimes I’m still amazed by what I do!

I think there are junior people everywhere whose lives possess nothing to do with method, but who will manage chitchat break through simply on nobleness strength of their talent.

Do boss around work with any of magnanimity young artists you support survive help them get started?

Not concretely, but I have taken cloth in seminars for young Nipponese hair stylists in Paris.

Current instead of asking them come close to cut hair, I organized elegant clay sculpture workshop. You crapper achieve results you never awaited in every discipline that affects working with your hands. Particular example, Ilker Akyol is straighten up genius of photography in forlorn eyes (he also does throw down in New York), but let go is just starting out.

Raving use Instagram to discover lush talent, like the 21-year-old outlander South Africa, Christopher Smith (@mechrissmith), who does some rather forcible self-portraits. I reached out come to get see how he prepared diadem shots, and he told make he took them alone deception his room. Technology is coarse a big boost to boldness nowadays, and it helps minor artists explore new tools bear reach larger audiences.

There conniving a lot of unknown liquidate with extraordinary talent. At decency same time, there are very a lot of high-placed census in fashion who have none.

CRASH 77 – SEPTEMBER 2016 ISSUE 

NAKED KINGS by Julien D’Ys, lead by Ilker Akyol