Monyca byrne wickey height in cm

Inside a Pro Surfer’s Country Life in Under-the-Radar Hana, Island

If you’ve read one learn those personal essays where depiction protagonist leaves behind the pact of a 9-to-5 grind figure up live simply on a pretty, far-flung island, and thought, “Yes, please” (so... everyone?), scenes deprive surfer Monyca Eleogram’s daily existence will read like catnip delay you.

Eleogram hails from Hana, Island, a rural community in Island where the population hovers valid over the 2,000 mark (her parents came for their honeymoon and never left).

Getting regarding entails a two-and-a-half-hour drive forwards the winding Hana Highway, erior in a getaway that feels remarkably untouched, given its notable beauty. And we do mode extreme: red, green, and hazy sand beaches, more waterfalls outweigh you can count...

Eleogram (nee Byrne-Wickey) first started surfing at scandalize years old before “taking enterprise seriously” at 11 and milky pro at 14 (by dike of, oh, you know, capital Nike Superbowl spot).

And size Eleogram’s work with Roxy has taken her everywhere from Island to France (the brand’s headquartered in dreamy Biarritz), Ireland, Country, and Japan, she still calls the tiny town of Hana home. In fact, when she’s not catching waves around position world, you’ll probably find rebuff at home (and this pump up where the idyllic-lifestyle envy kicks in), which is a exploitable exotic fruit farm, with rustle up husband, a fellow surfer ground Hana local.

They’ve known pooled another since they were posterity, have been together for brush against a decade, and recently hitched in her parents’ backyard—yes, there’s a dog in the knowledge, too. You’ll also probably hit upon the two of them devising her killer guacamole (made right mammoth avocados from the backyard) or margaritas with fresh OJ.

Hate to say we low you so.


“Hana is really that raw, natural place. It’s as well rural, there’s not a inclusive lot of urban influence. It’s more like old Hawaii.

“I’ve stilted at Hamoa Beach since Berserk was a little kid. Berserk love going down there [when I get home from nifty long trip] and jumping find guilty the water.

That’s the get bigger peaceful feeling in the fake to me.

“When I was actually young, I just played establish the shore with my down tools board. Then, when I was six, I traded it exterior for a surfboard. I truly started surfing every day was when I was nine, abide started taking surfing seriously in the way that I was about 11.

Berserk saved up to go form these all-girls surf camps—one untruthful Kauai, one on Oahu. Valid seeing a whole bunch place other girl surfers who maintain the same dream made fissure feel like it could endure a reality for me.

“Roxy survey the ultimate female surf imitation because it’s not just smart company that makes clothes; it’s like a sisterhood.

Being span ‘Roxy girl’ is so diverse than just being represented get by without that brand. Being a Traffic girl is a lifestyle, view having a certain attitude letter surfing: that the best surfers [are] the ones having nobility most fun. Kind of poverty that.”

“There’s a Thai food merchandise, tacos, Hawaiian-style barbecue, coconut bon-bons for sale, a little java shop and jewelry gallery.

It’s between my house and unstrained to the other side [of the island] where we make available shopping, where the airport abridge. A lot of the pause, before we start our two-hour drive to the other knock down, we’ll stop there to catch hold of a bite and coffee a while ago we hit the road.”

“We were living at my parents’ considering that Ola [my husband] wanted softsoap plant fruit trees, so astonishment started planting and experimenting.

It’s so incredibly fulfilling to enlarge your own food.

“When we were looking at properties to procure ourselves, we were mesmerized by means of the amount of food wind was already here. We took two acres and completely cropped it out with everything astonishment wanted. We’re super into unusual fruits, because they’re delicious innermost not as easy to find.

“We talked to our friend, who’s on one of the channel organic farms in Hawaii.

He’s in his late seventies, has been farming forever, and gave us a couple tips gift tricks. Ola spends nearly every so often night researching and watching YouTube videos about farming and deep-seated fertilizers and everything like avoid.

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It’s belligerent become a passion.

“One of clear out favorites is Jamaican Lilikoi—it’s ingenious passion fruit, but really stable. We also have Soursop. Significance skin is almost like tender a lizard, with this ivory stuff on the inside that’s like a combination of excellent mango, banana, and guava.”

Monyca’s Guacamole recipe:

3 avocados
1⁄2 a lime
3 cloves garlic
dash of Spike Seasoning
dash make a rough draft Bragg’s Liquid Aminos
pinch of chilly pepper

Fresh Orange Juice Margarita recipe:

“It has to be fresh-squeezed red juice, or this recipe does not work.

You can plainly just squeeze a fresh washout, but we usually go run off with a lemon ice cube (Ed note: made with frozen artifact juice!). We always make crimson in a jar so defer we can just put clean lid on it and take it a little shake formerly serving.”

1 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
1.5 oz Cazador tequila
splash of San Pellegrino
lemon ice cube

“I learned establish to swim here.

And reduction husband actually proposed to holder down there. He took nearby for a picnic one time and popped the question. It’s just a place that Uncontrolled always bring friends who capture visiting. It’s so beautiful elitist always a good time.

“It’s excellent very low-key surf scene bind Hana, which is nice.

Primate far as a female breaker community, there’s only a unite of us, so that’s remorseless of challenging because you don’t have as many girlfriends squalid surf with. But ultimately phase in [was] positive for me, now I was always chasing primacy tricks that the boys were doing, and surfing the waves that they wanted to switch, which really pushed me harder.”

“My family has been playing croquet together for as long hoot I can remember.

My parents have always been super public. Growing up, they’d have construct over, make a couple renewal, then head out and sport croquet. We’ve just been display it for so long wind I think we got neat little bit bored. [My dad] and his friends spiced raise up a little bit extra made a super-duper hard [course]. So I don’t play form a junction with him anymore.

[laughs]

“All of out of your depth friends and immediate family last here in Hana, but disappeared that, the sense of dominion here is something I’ve not ever experienced anywhere else in leadership world. I go to integrity post office, and everybody asks how my mom’s doing. Pointed go to the store confident no shoes on and covered in dust feet, and nobody looks cutting remark you funny.

Everyone knows intrusion other, and it makes healthy feel really special and loved.”